{"id":160,"date":"2016-09-20T12:48:07","date_gmt":"2016-09-20T02:48:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/?page_id=160"},"modified":"2020-01-09T17:15:26","modified_gmt":"2020-01-09T06:15:26","slug":"layered-top","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/the-wardrobe\/layered-top\/","title":{"rendered":"Layered Top"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-flow wp-block-group-is-layout-flow\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignleft size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/JoCramer_18_Shot-05_510-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Layered Top and Culottes\" class=\"wp-image-388\" width=\"512\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/JoCramer_18_Shot-05_510-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/JoCramer_18_Shot-05_510-600x900.jpg 600w, https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/JoCramer_18_Shot-05_510-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/JoCramer_18_Shot-05_510-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/JoCramer_18_Shot-05_510-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/JoCramer_18_Shot-05_510-1366x2048.jpg 1366w, https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/JoCramer_18_Shot-05_510.jpg 1505w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\" \/><figcaption>The Layered Top with The Culottes<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Designing Knitwear for Extended Use<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Cut and sew knit garments feature prominently in contemporary, everyday womenswear.\u00a0 Knit fabrics introduce additional considerations in designing garments for extended wear.\u00a0 Knit garments are cut from fabrics that have either one-way or two-way stretch, joined with multi-thread chain stitching that creates flexible seams to stretch with the fabric.\u00a0 Knit garments can be pulled on and off easily, often without the need for openings and fastenings.\u00a0 Because they stretch to fit, knit garments are comfortable and accommodate some fluctuation in body size.\u00a0 These qualities make them popular with designers and wearers alike.\u00a0 Knit garments feature in all categories of fashion, particularly in the \u2018basics\u2019 category of foundation garments or base layers, designed to be worn regularly, in combination with more fashionable garments.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>An enduring knit garment is likely be one that withstands frequent wear and facilitates repair.\u00a0 Given their forgiving fit, it is likely less that during extended use, knit garments would need to be altered to accommodate changing body size.\u00a0 Design for the future repair of knit garments is hampered by the narrow, densely stitched seams that are time consuming to unpick and difficult to replicate using domestic sewing machinery.\u00a0 Therefore, the traditional tailoring methods investigated through the other garment styles shown on this website, need to be adapted to suit garments that through their very construction, prohibit intervention.\u00a0 This leads to an investigation of modular design.\u00a0 <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Modular Design<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>In this garment, principles of modularity are applied in two ways.\u00a0 The garment components are designed as modules to be interchanged easily during wear.\u00a0 Interchanging parts requires no sewing skills of the wearer.\u00a0 This approach seeks to support frequent use and to meet more wardrobe needs with fewer garments.\u00a0 To facilitate later disassembly and reassembly as may be required for repair, each module within the garment is designed and constructed to enable intervention using the simplest (de-)construction methods possible.\u00a0 <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:27px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><div style=\"text-algn:left\"><span style=\"display:inline-block;text-align:center;\"><iframe allow=\"autoplay\" class=\"youtube_embed_iframe\"    allowFullScreen=\"true\" style=\"width:640px; height:385px\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/1RpIyRAUYhE?autoplay=0&theme=dark&loop=0&fs=1&showinfo=1&modestbranding=0&iv_load_policy=3&color=red&autohide=1&disablekb=0&enablejsapi=1&version=3\"><\/iframe><\/span><\/div><\/p>\n<p>This top is made up of a singlet, a tube collar and a bolero cardigan that can be worn together or as separates.\u00a0 This means it can be worn all year long- when it&#8217;s cool or warm outside and in the unpredictable air conditioning.\u00a0 It is a deliberately simple design: a close-fitting body with a modest round neckline, a shaped, hip-length hemline that might be tucked in or worn out, and long sleeves.\u00a0 Each of these style features is a site of experimentation with principles of modularity.<\/p>\n<style id=\"bwg-style-0\">    #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 .bwg-container-0.bwg-standard-thumbnails {      width: 604px;              justify-content: center;        margin:0 auto !important;              background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00);            padding-left: 4px;      padding-top: 4px;      max-width: 100%;            }        #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 .bwg-container-0.bwg-standard-thumbnails .bwg-item {    justify-content: flex-start;      max-width: 200px;            width: 200px !important;          }    #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 .bwg-container-0.bwg-standard-thumbnails .bwg-item a {       margin-right: 4px;       margin-bottom: 4px;    }    #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 .bwg-container-0.bwg-standard-thumbnails 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    alt=\"Layered Top in Cream (C)Jo Cramer \"                   title=\"Layered Top in Cream (C)Jo Cramer \" \/>            <\/div>            <div class=\"\">                                                      <\/div>          <\/div>        <\/div>                        <\/a>              <\/div>            <div class=\"bwg-item\">        <a class=\"bwg-a  bwg_lightbox\"  data-image-id=\"23\" href=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/Layered_Top\/JoCramer_18_Shot_04_361.jpg?bwg=1578456055\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"no\">                <div class=\"bwg-item0 \">          <div class=\"bwg-item1 \">            <div class=\"bwg-item2\">              <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"skip-lazy bwg_standart_thumb_img_0 \"                   data-id=\"23\"                   data-width=\"478\"                   data-height=\"478\"                   data-src=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/Layered_Top\/thumb\/JoCramer_18_Shot_04_361.jpg?bwg=1578456055\"                   src=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/Layered_Top\/thumb\/JoCramer_18_Shot_04_361.jpg?bwg=1578456055\"                   alt=\"Layered Top in Black front (C)Jo Cramer \"                   title=\"Layered Top in Black front (C)Jo Cramer \" \/>            <\/div>            <div class=\"\">                                                      <\/div>          <\/div>        <\/div>                        <\/a>              <\/div>            <div class=\"bwg-item\">        <a class=\"bwg-a  bwg_lightbox\"  data-image-id=\"22\" href=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/Layered_Top\/JoCramer_18_Shot_04_382.jpg?bwg=1578456055\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"no\">                <div class=\"bwg-item0 \">          <div class=\"bwg-item1 \">            <div 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href=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/Layered_Top\/JoCramer_18_Shot_04_337.jpg?bwg=1578456055\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"no\">                <div class=\"bwg-item0 \">          <div class=\"bwg-item1 \">            <div class=\"bwg-item2\">              <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"skip-lazy bwg_standart_thumb_img_0 \"                   data-id=\"19\"                   data-width=\"430\"                   data-height=\"430\"                   data-src=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/Layered_Top\/thumb\/JoCramer_18_Shot_04_337.jpg?bwg=1578456055\"                   src=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/Layered_Top\/thumb\/JoCramer_18_Shot_04_337.jpg?bwg=1578456055\"                   alt=\"Layered Top in Black back (C)Jo Cramer \"                   title=\"Layered Top in Black back (C)Jo Cramer \" \/>            <\/div>            <div class=\"\">                                                      <\/div>          <\/div>        <\/div>                        <\/a>              <\/div>            <div class=\"bwg-item\">        <a class=\"bwg-a  bwg_lightbox\"  data-image-id=\"21\" href=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/Layered_Top\/JoCramer_18_Shot_04_396.jpg?bwg=1578456055\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"no\">                <div class=\"bwg-item0 \">          <div class=\"bwg-item1 \">            <div class=\"bwg-item2\">              <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"skip-lazy bwg_standart_thumb_img_0 \"                   data-id=\"21\"                   data-width=\"533\"                   data-height=\"533\"                   data-src=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/Layered_Top\/thumb\/JoCramer_18_Shot_04_396.jpg?bwg=1578456055\"                   src=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/Layered_Top\/thumb\/JoCramer_18_Shot_04_396.jpg?bwg=1578456055\"                   alt=\"Layered Top in Black back (C)Jo Cramer \"                   title=\"Layered Top in Black back (C)Jo Cramer \" \/>            <\/div>            <div class=\"\">                                                      <\/div>          <\/div>        <\/div>                        <\/a>              <\/div>            <div class=\"bwg-item\">        <a class=\"bwg-a  bwg_lightbox\"  data-image-id=\"20\" href=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/Layered_Top\/JoCramer_18_Shot_03_1098.jpg?bwg=1578456055\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"no\">                <div class=\"bwg-item0 \">          <div class=\"bwg-item1 \">            <div class=\"bwg-item2\">              <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"skip-lazy bwg_standart_thumb_img_0 \"                   data-id=\"20\"                   data-width=\"392\"                   data-height=\"392\"                   data-src=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/Layered_Top\/thumb\/JoCramer_18_Shot_03_1098.jpg?bwg=1578456055\"                   src=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/Layered_Top\/thumb\/JoCramer_18_Shot_03_1098.jpg?bwg=1578456055\"                   alt=\"Layered Top in Black back inside (C)Jo Cramer \"                   title=\"Layered Top in Black back inside (C)Jo Cramer \" \/>            <\/div>            <div class=\"\">                                                      <\/div>          <\/div>        <\/div>                        <\/a>              <\/div>          <\/div>    <style>      \/*pagination styles*\/      #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 .tablenav-pages_0 {\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\t\t\t\tfont-size: 12px;\t\t\t\tfont-family: segoe ui;\t\t\t\tfont-weight: bold;\t\t\t\tcolor: #666666;\t\t\t\tmargin: 6px 0 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            return false;            });        \t\t\t\t\/* Change page on input enter. *\/        function bwg_change_page_0( e, that ) {          if (  e.key == 'Enter' ) {            var to_page = parseInt(jQuery(that).val());            var pages_count = jQuery(that).parents(\".pagination-links\").data(\"pages-count\");            var current_url_param = jQuery(that).attr('data-url-info');            if (to_page > pages_count) {              to_page = 1;            }\t \t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tspider_page_0(this, to_page, 0, 'numeric');\t\t\t\t\t\t\treturn false;\t\t\t\t\t\t          }          return true;        }        jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_0').on('click', function () {            spider_page_0(this, 1, 1, true);            return false;        });      <\/script>      <\/span>                <\/div>        <\/form>        <style>          #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 #spider_popup_overlay_0 {          background-color: #000000;          opacity: 0.70;          }          <\/style>        <div id=\"bwg_spider_popup_loading_0\" class=\"bwg_spider_popup_loading\"><\/div>        <div id=\"spider_popup_overlay_0\" class=\"spider_popup_overlay\" onclick=\"spider_destroypopup(1000)\"><\/div>        <input type=\"hidden\" id=\"bwg_random_seed_0\" value=\"454761371\">                <\/div>    <\/div>    <script>      if (document.readyState === 'complete') {        if( typeof bwg_main_ready == 'function' ) {          if ( jQuery(\"#bwg_container1_0\").height() ) {            bwg_main_ready(jQuery(\"#bwg_container1_0\"));          }        }      } else {        document.addEventListener('DOMContentLoaded', function() {          if( typeof bwg_main_ready == 'function' ) {            if ( jQuery(\"#bwg_container1_0\").height() ) {             bwg_main_ready(jQuery(\"#bwg_container1_0\"));            }          }        });      }    <\/script>    \n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><em>(Click to show larger images with descriptions.)<\/em><\/p>\n<p>The layering makes it easy to swap out pieces for different styles (perhaps a hood instead of a collar?), or wear each piece with mixed other garments.\u00a0 To make each layer last as long as possible, the parts that are most likely to wear out in time have been designed to be easily replaced.\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Modular garment design for repair and renewal.<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Modularity potentially overcomes the need for repair if worn garment parts can be swapped for new ones.\u00a0 For example, the hem and the cuffs of knit garments are particularly susceptible to wear (dirt and holes).\u00a0 Therefore, instead of the typical folded, cover-stitched allowance, the cuffs of the sleeves and the hem of the singlet body are designed as wide bands, cut from a contrast fabric and seamed into place.\u00a0 When damaged or stained, the bands can be cut off and replaced with new parts made in a complementary fabric.\u00a0 This potentially assists with repairs because an exact fabric match for the body of the garment need not be found.\u00a0 Instead, any fabric that the wearer thinks suits the body of the garment can be used.\u00a0 Since the original garment included contrasting fabric, the look of the garment need not be dramatically affected by the repair.\u00a0 In fact, it presents an opportunity to update and refresh the look of the garment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>How to replace the cuffs on the bolero cardi is explained\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/2016\/09\/12\/layered-top-cuff-tutorial\/\"><em>here<\/em><\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Designing Knitwear for Extended Use Cut and sew knit garments feature prominently in contemporary, everyday womenswear.\u00a0 Knit fabrics introduce additional considerations in designing garments for extended wear.\u00a0 Knit garments are cut from fabrics that have either one-way or two-way stretch, joined with multi-thread chain stitching that creates flexible seams to stretch with the fabric.\u00a0 Knit&hellip; <a class=\"more-link\" href=\"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/the-wardrobe\/layered-top\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Layered Top<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":135,"menu_order":1,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-160","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry","entry"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/160","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=160"}],"version-history":[{"count":19,"href":"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/160\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":548,"href":"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/160\/revisions\/548"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/135"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/jocramer.com\/wardrobe\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=160"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}